How to Build a Disinfection Chamber

Mask disinfection in action
  • Chamber (use a suitable fire-resistant chamber with a door: e.g. an oven)
  • Four Philips Germicidal Lamps (Philips TUV PL-L 18 watt 4 pin)
  • A suitable ballast (Fulham Workhorse: WH5-120-L )
  • Four bulb sockets/bases (2G11) plus bulb holding clips
  • Wire and two Cable Glands (PG9)
Datasheet from Philips (18 Watt bulb specs are 2nd row from bottom)
Here’s a look at how you remove the screws hidden in (and beneath) the rubber feet of the unit.
Don’t forget several of the screws on the inside of the door openings (both sides). To the right is the main timer knob I’m not using to control things.
Here’s a few photos (apologize for low quality) of the removed door. The middle and left photos show how the door (the part with my hand on it) connects to both side panels (what I described as a set of ear muffs). So in addition to removing all the screws holding on those side panels, you also need to pull out two metal connecting tabs (which slide into the slots my finger is pointing to (in the rightmost photo ). In summary, removing this part was a real pain, and I should have worn gloves for it too because of the sharp edges.
The leftmost and middle photos show the interior cavity that’s within the right hand side of the toaster oven (just behind the control dials on the front of the toaster). These photos are prior to modification, so you can see the attached fan in the middle as well as the intact wiring on the left and where the power cord comes into the cavity on the bottom right. The rightmost photo shows the left side of the toaster with the panel removed — no electronics on this side other than the rods attached to the heating elements that pass through.
Photos of the right interior cavity of the toaster: with the removed fan (left), the original control wiring (middle), and the new ballast with wired in rough (right).
The completed wiring, sorry about the angle and wire color choices.
Here’s the wiring diagram I used based on Fulham’s available charts for my four twin bulbs. I recommend doing your own due diligence on this one. You can also see the single yellow wire coming out from the ballast here.
Newly installed bulb sockets/bases (left), wiring in back of socket (middle), full bulbs installed including metal holders (right)
It works!




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